Ayrshire Towns and Parishes

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Note there is a KILMARONOCK, a parish, in the county of Dumbarton, 1 mile (W. by S.) from Drymen 



Dean Castle - Dean Park


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Notes on the way through Ayrshire - 100 years ago (now about 200 years ago)



THE ancient Bailiwick of Cunningham, extending from Irvine River to the northern boundary of the county, was governed hereditarily by the great family of Cunningham, who became Earls of Glencairn, and whose name it bears. But the origin of the name would seem to be Conig Ham - that is, King’s District. Irvine was its capital. Under its modern name of North Ayrshire, it sends an M.P. to the House of Commons. It comprises 16 parishes.


THE largest town in Ayrshire, stands in the two parishes of Kilmarnock and Riccarton, at the confluence of Kilmarnock Water and Irvine River, seven miles east from the sea, 15 miles north-north-east of Ayr, and 23 miles by rail from Glasgow. It is a place of antiquity, having originated, we suppose, with Kilmarnock or Dean Castle, in the year 1066; was made a burgh of barony by James VI., 1591; a royal burgh by Charles II., 1672; and a Parliamentary burgh in 1832. Population in 1871, 23,709; in 1881, 25,844. 

It covers a large area, stretching about two miles from south to north, by an average breadth of half-a-mile. The wide-spreading plan, which is rare in Scotland, is the best for any town, as it gives to so many separate families their own front and back doors, with garden and little bleaching green set about with flowers and berry bushes. A number of the streets, however, are closely packed and antiquated, but they are for the most part spacious and well built-the chief ones presenting a magnificent array of shops, hotels, business offices, and public buildings, many of which are rich in design and costly in workman-ship. It has a Town Hall, a Court-House, an Exchange; a head post office, with all departments; branches of the Bank of Scotland, Royal Bank, National Bank, Clydesdale Bank, British Linen Company Bank, Union Bank, and Commercial Bank; two free schools, two other large primary schools, an Academy, a School of Art; a Philosophical Institute, with an observatory, 75 feet in height, erected and furnished with instruments in 1818. The ecclesiastical edifices include 21 churches - namely, six Free Churches, five Established Churches, four United Presbyterian Churches, two Evangelical Union Churches, an Original Secession Church, a Baptist Church, an Episcopalian Church, and a Roman Catholic Church. Many of these have special marks of beauty and interest. The steeple of the Grange Free Church is a feature of the town. The Laigh Kirk, rebuilt in 1729, has its old spire, erected in 1410, still standing; and its auld Kirkyard is of more than ordinary interest to the antiquary, containing as it does the remains and monuments of many celebrated people of the far distant past. Here are two martyrs’ tombstones. And, 

" Tam Samson’s weel-worn clay here lyes, Ye canting zealots spare him ;

If honest worth to heaven rise,. Ye’ll mend or ye win near him."

The office where the first edition of Burns’ Poems was printed is not now to the fore, though there are several printing offices, and two weekly newspapers are published- The Kilmarnock Herald and the Kilmarnock Standard. The room in which the poet corrected his proof sheets is still to be seen. In the centre of the town is a statue of Sir James Shaw. (See Riccarton.)

As a seat of manufacture, Kilmarnock is the greatest. in the shire. It first became distinguished for the manufacture of Scotch bonnets. The Corporation of Bonnet Makers dates from 1647. The carpet manufacture (the first in Scotland) was properly commenced by Mary Gardner; and, aided subsequently by the mechanical inventions of Thomas Morton, and the enthusiasm of artistic genius that inspired the working women and men engaged, it soon attained to great perfection of beauty and quality. Buckingham Palace has been furnished with Kilmarnock carpets, as the most fitting match for the golden slippers of Royalty. Another of the old industries of the town is ,the wholesale manufacture of hand-stitched boots and shoes. The annual value of this production in 1791 was almost equal to the carpet production of that time, being £21,216; while tanning produced £9000, and glove making £3000 annually. In 1840 the value of carpets produced annually amounted to £150,000, and of shawls £240,000. Since that time a number of extensive new industries - chief among which is the manufacture of steam engines and works connected therewith - have rapidly augmented the wealth and size of the town, and spread its fame throughout the civilized world. Wherever the locomotive is known, there also is known and applauded Barclay of Kilmarnock’s ingenious invention, the injector, for priming the steam boiler.

The vicinage of the town is charming, with numerous polished and beautiful stone villas and cottages, adorned with shrubs and flowers from the various and splendid nurseries at hand; and above all, the Burns’ Monument, a massive structure 80 feet high, towering aloft in the Kay Park. It is of the old Scotch baronial order of architecture, and happily represents the " rustic grace " which the poet admired so much in his native country. The ground story of the building is occupied by the keeper; above is a museum of valuable relics of Burns; and above that again is a fine marble statue of the poet - a true statue - so graceful, and so like the well known and beloved portrait by Nasmith as to fill one’s heart with joy. It is by W. G. Stevens, of Edinburgh, and cost £800. The baronial tower which belongs to it is after designs by Ingram, of Kilmarnock, and cost over £2000. The whole sum flowed in by subscription. The public park in which it stands on an eminence in the centre, is one of 40 acres, and cost £12,000, the funds having been left for that purpose by the late Alexander Kay, of (Glasgow, a native of Kilmarnock, who also bequeathed a further sum of £6000 for the erection and endowment of two schools for the children of poor industrious folk. The Reformers’ Monument occupies a commanding site in the park. It is of the Corinthian order, bearing a beautiful statue of the figure of liberty, and is about 53 feet high. An ornamental fountain in the park is the gift of the late Mrs. Crook, and cost £800. Here is also an elegant band stand; and when on summer evenings the air is filled with music and the ground bedecked with flowers, the Kay Park is indeed a gay park. But there is yet another public park, which, though new to the town, is grand in the solemn majesty of age, and supplies the sweet and peaceful repose sought by those of advanced years - Belfield by name- an estate of 240 acres, with pleasure-grounds, mansion and all, at the south end of the town, recently gifted to the people by the late Misses Buchanan of Belfield, three sisters, the last of whom died in 1875. It does one good to see that ingenious Kilmarnock, the pride of Ayrshire art and industry, so lately fenced on the hard roads as hardly another town of such magnitude was, can now laugh to behold her children cast their shoes and stockings in warm weather for the thrilling pleasure of having the soles of their young poetic feet tickled with God’s gowany grass. 

Kilmarnock is prolific of poets - the finest variety of the human species - though, like all other poets of Ayrshire, they are in a measure lost in the blaze of Burns, as stars in the effulgence of the sun. We have space but to mention a few of the past. Alexander Smith, poet and essayist, was born at Kilmarnock on Hogmanay, 1830, and received his education here. Was first intended for the ministry, but circumstances occurred which necessitated his leaving school and engaging in his father’s occupation of lace pattern designer. While working at his trade in Glasgow, all his spare time was given to the composition of verse. In 1853, at the age of three-and-twenty, he published a long poem entitled "A Life Drama," which was received well by the best critics, not as a dramatic work, but as uncommonly fine poetry. Next year he was rewarded with the favourable appointment of secretary to the Edinburgh University. During the Russian war (1855) he published "War Sonnets," conjointly with Sidney Dobel; in 1857 appeared his "City Poems," a small volume of short pieces; in 1861 "Edwin of Deira." in 1863, " Dreamthorp," , 1865, a delightful volume of essays; in "A Summer in Skye," and also an "Edition of Burns, with Memoir; " in 1866, Alfred Haggart’s House-hold*" in 1867, "Miss Dona M‘Quarrie." The two last are novels. Mr. Smith also contributed prose articles to " Encvclopedia Britannica, " " Blackwood’s Magazine," and "Chambers Encyclopedia." His writings, whether in poetry or prose, are remarkable for their beautifully figurative style and elegant finish, and take the first rank in the pure literature class to which they belong. Died at the age of 37.

The Rev. George Campbell, poet, horn in Kilmarnock, 1760, was bred a shoemaker, and also a poem maker, for while he was making the one ho was making the other, and whiles the one and whiles the other would get upper-most in his mind. He was at the same time giving himself a course of self-education for the ministry; but the shoes afforded so little time for this that ho left them, and taught a small school. Having prepared himself for the University of Glasgow before his savings had sufficiently accumulated to pay the cost of going there, he contrived to eek out the sum by publishing his poems in one volume. On leaving the University he was licensed to preach by the Burger Associate Synod, and placed minister of a congregation at Stockbridge, Berwickshire, where he published a volume of sermons, and remained until his death in 1818. 

John Ramsay, poet, born in Kilmarnock, 1802, was bred to carpet weaving in a factory. While weaving his beautiful web he was also weaving his beautiful poem, and contributing pieces to the "Edinburgh Literary Journal." Having saved a few pounds by his labour, he opened a small shop in the  grocery line, and afterwards published his poems in a goodly sized volume. Not agreeing with waiting behind the counter, he gave it up; and, to obtain the open-air exercise which his poetic constitution demanded, went courageously forth over Scotland selling his volume, not giving it to the bookselling trade; and thus securing to himself a monopoly of buyers, and all the retail, wholesale, and publishing profits. But even with these advantages, and though his work was in every way worthy, it required an amount of energy which only such as he, bred to hard work, could think of exerting; and when that failed him, in advanced years, Mr. Ramsay suffered considerable hardships. age of 77. Died in Glasgow at the Speaking of hardships, we are reminded of poor Jean Glover, author and composer of the grand enthusiastic pastoral song and melody "Ower the moor Burns met her, and wrote down the song from her fervid lips. Died in 1801, aged 43. Another poetic maiden of Kilmarnock, but of happier memory - Marion Paul Aird- was born in Glasgow, 1815, her mother being sister to the Rev. Hamilton Paul, editor of Burns and a native of Girvan Water. Miss Aird removed at an early age to Kilmarnock, where she composed her poems. Her first volume--"The Home of the Heart, and other Poems "-was published in 1846, and that was followed in 1853 by "Heart Histories." These, her principal corks, contain many very fine sacred pieces. Archibald M‘Kay, poet,, born at Kilmarnock, 1801, was first a weaver, next a bookbinder, and latterly he kept a circulating library and stationer’s shop of his own. entitled " Drouthy Tam," In 1828 he published a poem which attracted much attention; in 1844, a volume of poems and sketches entitled "Recreations of Leisure Hours;" in 1848, his celebrated " History of Kilmarnock," a fourth edition of which was issued in 1880; in 1855, " Ingleside Lilts ; " and subsequently, " Burns and his Kilmarnock Friends." The most popular of M‘Kay’s productions are " My First Bawbee," and "Be Kind to Auld Grannie." Died in Kilmarnock, aged 82.  Robert Tannahill, the poet, author of "Loudoun’s Bonny Woods and Braes," was born in Paisley, though his father was a native of Kilmarnock.

Principal James Morison, D.D., founder of the Evangelical Union Church, was born at Bathgate, 1815 - his father, the Rev. Robert Morison, author of "Statement of Principles, " " Infant Baptism Vindicated," &c., being then minister of the Secession Church there. In 1840 Dr. Morison, in his 25th year, was ordained minister of Clerk’s Lane Secession Church, Kilmarnock. In the following year he published a tract entitled " The Way of Salvation,: or, the question answered, What must I do to be saved ? This occasioned much controversy concerning the atonement; and, by a decision of the Presbytery, its author was suspended for heresy. This decision having been confirmed by the Synod, to which he appealed, and not choosing to deny his conscientious belief, he was ejected from the Secession Church. A majority of the Clerk’s Lane congregation adhering to their minister, effected an arrangement by which they retained possession of the edifice. Thus was founded the Morisonian Church, now called the Evangelical Union. It already numbers about 80 churches, being more than thrice as many as those of the United Original Seceders’ Church, from which it seceded. Dr. Morison holds the offices of Principal and Professor in the Theological Hall of the Evangelical Union Church, Glasgow.

James Paterson literary antiquary, was born at Struthers, outside the town’ May 18, 1805, and learned the printing business in Kilmarnock. Published " Contemporaries of Burns," edition of " Sempill Ballates," 1848 ;  "The Obit Book of the Church of St. John the Baptist, Ayr;" "History of Ayr;" " Wallace and his friends;" "Life and Poems of William Dunbar," &c. Died 1877.

The town is well supplied with railways. They go out in six directions-north by Stewarton to Glasgow, north-west by Kilbirnie to Greenock, west by Ardrossan to Largs, south-west by Ayr to Stranraer, south-east by New Cumnock to Gretna Green, east by Galston to Newmilns ; and a new direct line to Ayr is in proposition. The section between here and Troon, now reconstructed, is the oldest railway in Scotland, having been opened in 1812, and therefore before the use of the locomotive.

The Mount and Annanhill are seats on the west side of the town. About a mile north-east of the town, on the right of the road to Fenwick - where Crawfordland and Fenwick Waters join and form Kilmarnock Water - stands the majestic ruin of the Dean or Kilmarnock Castle, its massive roofless towers rising to a height of 70 feet. A portion of it still standing dates from 1066. Its earliest known occupants were Lockharts ; but it is chiefly identified with the noble family of Boyd, Earls of Kilmarnock, the last of whom - William, Fourth Earl-was taken prisoner at the battle of Culloden, and executed along with Lord Balmerino. The ablest member of this family was Robert, first Lord .Boyd, son of Sir Thomas of Kilmarnock. He acquired a national popularity, and great favour with the King (James II.), who created him a peer by the title of Lord Boyd of Kilmarnock. On the death of that monarch, in 1460, Boyd was appointed Chancellor of the Kingdom, and one of the four Lords of the Regency during the minority of James III. He got his brother, Sir Alexander, appointed Governor of the young King, whom they advised to discharge from office the other three Lords of the Regency - viz., the Archbishop of St. Andrews, the Archbishop of Glasgow, and the Bishop of Dunkeld - and had himself (the Chancellor) declared sole Regent. As sole Regent and Chancellor, he practically commanded the whole power of the State. He now got the King to create his son Earl of Arran, and had him married to his majesty’s eldest sister. This was going ahead. But some of the other nobles, getting access to the King, advised him to call a Parliament to discuss the conduct of Lord Boyd. Failing to appear in Parliament in defence of their proceedings, the Boyds were condemned as traitors. Sir Alexander was seized and beheaded ; Lord Boyd escaped over the Border, and died at Alnwick, 1470 ; and his son, the Earl of Arran, was divorced from his wife, the Princess, and died in exile at Antwerp, 1474. They were evidently condemned by their fellow nobles out of pure spite at their success. Elizabeth, daughter of Lord Boyd, was the mother of Gavin Douglas, the eminent old Scotch poet, Bishop of Dunblane. About one mile and a half north-east of Kilmarnock Castle, up Crawfordland Water, on its right bank, stands Crawfordland Castle, partly a very old and partly a new mansion. The Crawfords have an interesting history.

Rowallan Castle is a preserved ancient ruin, in grand old woods on Carmel Water, about a league north of Kilmarnock. It is known to have been the residence of the family of Mure so far back as the twelfth century, and is regarded with poetic reverence for the beauty of its old groves, and as the home of Sir William Mure, early Scotch poet, and of Elizabeth Mure, "fair Rowallan’s Daughter," who became a Queen. Sir William was born in 1594 - his mother, Elizabeth Montgomery of Hazelhead, Beith, being a sister, it is understood, of the Scotch poet, Alexander Montgomery. His first literary efforts are translations in verse from the Latin of Virgil, made before his twentieth year. In his twenty-third year he wrote a poetical address to King James VI., on his visiting Scotland in 1617. " The True Crusifixe for True Catholickes" was published at Edinburgh, 1620; and in 1639 he produced a new version of the Psalms of David. "The Cry of Blood and of a Broken Covenant" was published at Edinburgh, 1650. Some of his writings lay in manuscript for two hundred years, until they appeared in a publication ,entitled "Ancient Songs and Ballads," issued in 1820. Sir William was a Covenanter, and, as Captain of a company in the Ayrshire regiment, he fought at Marston Moor, where he was wounded, and at the taking of Newcastle in 1644. Died in 1657. Elizabeth Mure of Rowallan, the beautiful and accomplished daughter of Sir Alexander, married, in 1348, Robert Stewart of Dundonald (afterwards Robert II.), only child of the Princess Marjory, daughter of King Robert Bruce. To her husband she bore a family of four sons and six daughters. Her eldest son was Robert III., her grandson was James I., and so on the monarchs of Scotland, and of England and Ireland united to it, have been her descendants ever since.

The parish of Kilmarnock is rich in coal seams, which are successfully worked. The section, in the order of descent, is:-Wandering coal, 2 feet 8 inches; McNaught coal, 3 feet; Towerhall coal, 3 feet; major coal, 4 feet 6 inches; main coal, 4 feet; Linbed coal, 2 feet 10 inches; splint coal, 3 feet 10 inches; turf coal, 2 feet 9 inches; wee coal, 2 feet. 

The surface, which is mostly in good cultivation, is flat and productive about the town, where it is 100 feet above the sea level. From that it rises gently to 400 feet at its northern extremity, about three-fourths of a mile beyond Rowallan, and to 782 feet at Sneddon Law, its highest and most easterly part. From a little brook that feeds Polbaith Burn, at the back of Sneddon Law, seven miles from Kilmarnock, to a point two miles west-by-south of the town, its length is nine miles; and from past Rowallan to the junction of the Polbaith and the Irvine, a mile below the town of Galston, its transverse diameter is five miles. Area, 9444 acres. Population, 25,864.



In 1832, there were the following eight churches in Kilmarnock:

Laigh Kirk (Low Church) - the original one founded 1410, rebuilt 
1802, near King Street but more accurately in Church Lane off Bank Street. 
High Church - built 1731 on slightly higher ground, hence the name - 
again, not far from Wellington Street but more accurately on Back Street

Burghers Original  (sometimes called Old Light) built 1818
Wellington Street - became Henderson Free Church after the Disruption in 1843
Antiburghers (sometimes called New Light) built 1772 in Fultons Lane
became United Secession around 1820 Reformed Presbyterian in Mill
Lane, built 1785 rebuilt 1825 Relief Church in King Street, built 1832

Congregational, Clark Street, built 1826
Evangelical Union, Clerk's Lane, built 1775

In 1851, there were the following 18 churches in Kilmarnock:

Laigh Kirk (Low Church) High Church
St Marnock's Church
St Andrew's Church

Free High Church
Free St Andrew's Church
Free Henderson Church

Fulton's Lane Church
Prince's Street Church

Relief Church
Reformed Presbyterian Church (Mill Lane)

DISSENTING (non-Presbyterian)
Congregational Church, Clark Street
Evangelical Union Church, Clerk's Lane
Original Seceders, Academy, Green Street
Wesleyan Methodists, East George Street
United Methodists, Croft Hall
Baptists, Portland Street

West George Street


THIS remarkable snow-storm, which occurred, as stated above, on Saturday, the 
3rd of March, 1827, will be long remembered in this locality. In several places 
of the town the snow was about twenty feet deep; and some of the country roads 
in the vicinity were so filled up, that the tops of the tall hedges with which they 
were skirted could scarcely be discerned. Unfortunately, too, the storm proved 
fatal to one of our townsmen, Mr. John Brown, shoemaker. Ho was a passenger 
in the Telegraph coach from Glasgow to Kilmarnock; and on its being arrested 
near Drumboy Hill, he, along with the driver and two fellow-travellers, left it to 
seek assistance at Logan's Well Inn, when he lost his way, and perished amid the 
trackless snow. The county newspaper of the time thus describes the occurrence: "
It began to snow about 9 A.M., and continued without intermission for nearly 
twenty-four hours. Towards evening a strong east wind arose, and the rising drift 
speedily shut up the roads, and put a stop to travelling. The coaches were all 
arrested eastward. The Ayr Telegraph for Glasgow, which left Kilmarnock with 
six horses, came to an anchor between the two Fenwicks; that for Ayr lies at the 
foot of Drumboy Hill. The Eegulator is somewhere about Logan's Well; the 
Kilmarnock coach, the Britannia, near the Mearns; and the English coach, about 
Mauchline. The Telegraph coach from Glasgow seems to have encountered the 
greatest difficulties. On her being stopped at Drumboy Hill, the guard joined the 
five inside passengers in the coach, whilst the driver and three outsides resolved 
to proceed to King's Well, about a mile and a half distant, to procure assistance; 
and the driver accordingly, after many deviations, reached the inn with some of 
the horses. Such was the war of the elements, that no aid could be given at this 
time, and the six people remained in the coach. About midnight two of the outside 
passengers, after floundering about for six hours, came again in their wan-

derings upon the coach, which they at first mistook for a house, and were taken in 
greatly exhausted; and here till next day did those eight remain in great distress, 
and half suffocated by the snow drifting over them to the depth of four or five feet. 
The third passenger, Mr. John Brown, shoemaker, Kilmarnock, was not, however, 
even so fortunate. He missed both his way and his fellow-travellers, and sank 
beneath the shelter of the shapeless drift . His body was found on Monday, and 
brought to Kilmarnock in the evening." 
Regarding the effects of the storm in Kilmarnock, the same authority says : " Our 
streets on Sunday morning presented a novel appearance. Deep snow, wreathed 
in all directions, covered every thing. The churches remained vacant; and those 
meeting-houses which did attempt public worship were thinly attended. People 
were employed to cut foot-paths-clearing the streets being out of the question. 
The snow lay in wreaths in some places to the height of from twelve to twenty 
feet. There has been no snow-storm here like the present since 1795." 
We may add that the Eegulator coach, mentioned above, which left Glasgow for 
Kilmarnock with six horses, also encountered great difficulties. It got only about 
a hundred yards beyond Logan's Well Inn, when the horses were floundering in 
wreaths of snow of about five feet in depth. Fortunately, however, they were 
extricated from their perilous position, and the coach was dragged backwards to 
the inn. The late Rev. Dr. George Smith, of the Low Church (afterwards of the 
Tolbooth Church, Edinburgh), was one of the passengers, and though anxious to get 
to Kilmarnock, where he was to preach the next day, he was compelled to remain 
till Monday in Logan's Well house. As another instance of the unusual nature 
of the storm, we may state, that when the Doctor looked out of his bed-room 
window in the morning, he was much struck by seeing the back court filled with 
snow to the eaves of the outhouses, and the post-gig sticking up on the top of a 
huge wreath at a short distance from the inn.



1791-99 and 1845 Statistical Accounts

Click on the Parish List tab then select Account Year  followed by County and Parish required. Click on the page link in the 'reference' column when this is found.



Photographs of Headstones in Kilmarnock Cemeteries

By Kenny Monaghan kennymonaghan@btinternet.com contact him here



Some Kilmarnock Death Records post 1855


Map of Kilmarnock today

This Link takes you to the MULTIMAP website where you will find a map of the town and the surrounding area as it is today. You can zoom in and out and move around in all directions.


StreetMap of Kilmarnock

This Link takes you to the STREET website where you will find a street map of the town as it is today. You can zoom in and out and move around in all directions.


ViaMichelin Map of Kilmarnock

Search for hotels, restaurants, tourist attractions. Information about the town.


Old Maps of Ayrshire Place Names

This link goes directly to the OLD MAPS website for an Ayrshire Index to detailed old maps of most Ayrshire Towns around 1860. You can explore out to all sides by using the arrows at the top of the page. These maps are ideal for finding the locations of areas such as farms.



Ordnance Survey map of Kilmarnock 1857-9

Zoom in on old Kilmarnock streets.



Kilmarnock Web Sites



The Lordship and Barony of Kilmarnock Website
in Ayrshire,  Scotland


Dean Castle

Owned originally by the Boyd family, it has strong historical connections with many people and events famous in Scottish history.


1819 Map of Kilmarnock



Old High Kirk



Live Webcam at the Cross



Kilmarnock Books


Pre-1855 Gravestone Inscriptions in Kilmarnock and Loudoun District
Alastair G. Beattie, Margaret H. Beattie

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Kilmarnock Street Plan
Ronald P.A. Smith

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Kilmarnock 1998/9 Soccer Yearbook

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Kilmarnock in Old Picture Postcards
F. Beattie

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Kilmarnock Street Guide

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Kilmarnock, 1819
John Wood

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Look at Kilmarnock

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Ninety Years of Cinema in Kilmarnock
Brian Hornsey

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Kilmarnock Maps


Landranger Map 0070: Ayr, Kilmarnock & Troon
Ordnance Survey

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Pathfinder Map 0456 (NS43/53): Kilmarnock & Darvel
Ordnance Survey

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Pathfinder Maps: Kilmarnock and Darvel

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Kilmarnock 1895

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