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Revolutions that the Railway Made The Historic " Goat House." Headquarters of " The Jolly Beggars "
But for the successive invasions of the railway, Saltcoats might have worn until to-day some considerable part of its garment of picturesque antiquity, particularly within that which has formed for a century and a-half the centrifugal orbit of its life. Just as the forces of civilisation broke through the croft of Grisel How to make an inclined road to Dalry, so the iron way crossed the northern boundary of another croft beside it to connect the town with the iron industries of Ardeer and the transplanted shipping activity of Ardrossan. The first station, which lay near the rocks at the East end, was removed to the Drakemyre on 1st July, 1858-the operations begun in 1857 by Black, the first contractor, having been continued by Edward Miller. When the railway came through the town, gates were put on the crossings at Raise Street, Jack’s Road, and Ardrossan Road, with a man at each - the Company by the Act of 1840 being hound for these. There was some difficulty in dissociating from the minds of children that these little men with the little red and green flags and the little watch-houses, were got up for their amusement. Jack Good had such a sentry box at "Jack’s Road," which the bairns very naturally thought was his own particular road; and they would come to see him making little wooden spoons with his knife out of apple-tree wood. These were indeed very simple days, for remember we are speaking of over sixty years ago, and children were children then. The planting of a station and goods sidings opposite the end of Green Street did not make any appreciable alteration on the appearance of the Drakemyre. Indeed, the presence of a railway system brought its swarm of industrial limpets to cling to its loading banks, and dull platforms and duller walls; for assuredly the Station House was the most inartistic structure that had ever been thrown up to tantalise the artistic sense of the inhabitants. Railway Companies are ever obdurate to public opinion or feeling, and so, although driving a line through the centre of the town had not entirely the effect of closing the gates of its northern and southern divisions, that was the very thing which was destined to happen. Accordingly in 1882, when the station was to be thrown further back towards Kyleshill, and Raise Street was to be closed, the proposal was met with sturdy opposition. The population of Saltcoats at that time was nearly 5100. Of this number 904 had their habitation in the higher land of Raise Street. The proposed operations of the Company were distinctly unfavourable to the high-landers; but, after much wrangling and the offer of two new streets, the public were advised to give way, and a great transformation took place. The Drakemyre was swept of its ancient glories, and a long red wall drawn over the former perspective of " thatches." The old and interesting triangle that had once lain at the foot of the Flush was cleared away, turning Countess Street into a large open square. This ground that had been two little "nine-yards" in the days of old, and alongside which the stream had flowed to the village green, disappeared as if it had never existed. Away went Mrs Reid’s possession and the possession of the M‘Alisters, famed bakers of their time. The surroundings were cleared, and a new road connected with Kyleshill. The first Bank in Saltcoats (when the late W. B. Orr became agent for the Ayrshire Bank) was abandoned, and its portico and windows have since remained boarded up. The old line of the Yard, which had belonged to an Irvine sailor, " Orr’s Nine Yard," going back to Bradshaw Roading, was framed and shaped to suit the official rules of uniformity, and Dan M‘Alister’s house was submerged beneath the Station buildings. The Ardrossan Parish commenced at the old Countess Street Well, which stood at the foot of the lane. With the houses between the well and the railway taken down, there was no longer need for such an ornament, and it disappeared. Across the railway other wonderful alterations took place. Near the foot of Raise Street had stood the house long occupied by the Victualling Society - the forerunner of the Co-operative Stores. This house was built by David Craig, a flesher, and his shop was kept by "Peggy Mackie," who was famed for making oat-cakes. It disappeared to make way for the other new street. " Tam M‘Whirter’s gates " vanished ; and to-day, thanks to an unstudied effort of the authorities, one can trace, in the shape of the causeway stones, the exact line along which was " the goat " or ditch that ran through the town, dividing the parishes of Stevenston and Ardrossan. Workmen tore down the property of William Wilson, the carrier, a large building erected by John Cunningham in earlier days, and which, with its capacious stables and houses, manifested the extent of the old pre-railway carrying industry. Into these sheds went all the merchandise, for there were no goods depots and no parcel offices. Wilson’s byre stood at the corner of Raise Street and the Goat Lane ; the garden entered from the lane, being stocked with fruit trees and bushes. William Wilson’s house of course touched part of the ground through which the Earl of Eglinton had carried his original scheme of continuation long before. The original possessor seems to have been a salt officer of old Saltcoats named James Miller. The widening of the line cleared away the old paths so I close to the railway that in walking along one could have touched the passing trains. On the opposite side was curious old ground, dating from 1788, sold to the Railway Company in 1867. It lay to the north-west of James Barber’s yard, where there was the back wall of an old malt kiln connected with an ancient brewery, of the beginning of which there is no definite trace. Beside it, almost under the shadow of the Western Bank, lay a house which sometimes went under the name of the "Goat House," but was not that celebrated institution. It was the house of Francie Wood, a contractor, in the busier days before the railway. Behind the house of the Woods, at the end of the narrow pathway leading from Kyleshill to Raise Street, stood the distinguished Goat House, its gable touching the lane called the Roading, close beside Janet M‘Alister’s rig. While some confusion has arisen as to both claimants for the honourable identity, the memory of those who lived there and the letters and figures on the door-lintel " D M B" 1700, sufficiently indicate the precedence of the house nearer the school. It stood exactly at the point where the lane to the school joined the continuation of the Goat Lane, after it had come across the railway. Strange were the stories told of the Goat House in days gone by when it was a model lodging-house and the meeting-place of "the Jolly Beggars" of Saltcoats (as M‘Killop sings) : " Peighbourhood, is scarcely traceable. To the right, going from Raise Street, was the Barn, a single-storey structure which had seen better days, and beside which the youths played rounders and ninepins. Macgregor’s Park, at the head, has become built out of sight; and many a "boy," grown grey, sees in his waking dreams the old ashen tree known as the "Raw Ree " tree, around which there had been thrown a glamour that has long since lost its spell. It is still a picture upon which to dream, that long sweep from the top of Raise Road to the far-off Quay-end, best viewed at twilight under the sheen of the stars. It. needs little imagination to re-people the quaint old homes with their irregular outlines and old-fashioned stairs, some cork-screwing upwards through gloomy passages, others spreading their inviting width in a style of aggressive gentility. The glare of the oil lamps has gone, but in the dark of night the modern lights still seem to peep out of a very far distant past . The mysteries of the Jacquard are still more mysterious to a present generation, which regards the loom as an antiquarian relic, and which has never known the shape of a shuttle nor heard its clattering dance along the "Race Road." The very sound of the treadles is a hushed melody, gone like the forgotten lilt of an old song with the sad human under-harmonies to which it was indissolubly wedded : The weary wab is long since spun, The twister’s stretched his warp and woof; The carriers’ cairts nae langer run, The hearth is cauld ‘neath the auld turf roof. The beaming lamp in the loft is shaded, The weaver’s voice on the plain stane’s still ; The flooers on the muslin work have faded, And silence reigns on the ancient hill. The loom’s click clack, with its old refrain, Is a melody we’ll ne’er hear again : " Three threids an’ a thrum, Three threids an’ a thrum ;The auld cat sings i’ the ingle neuk Three threids an’ a thrum."
How the Town’s Charter came through the Earl of Eglinton. Leaders of Public Life: Saltcoats’ Distinguished Roll of Honour.
The associations of Saltcoats with the Eglinton family - who have owned its broad acres from the centre of the town to the shores of Ardrossan - lie deeper than concerns mere tenure. Let us not forget that it was through the friendship of the first Earl with His Sovereign Majesty, James the Fifth, that Saltcoats secured its royal title as a burgh of barony. The Baronial Charter is addressed by the King to "our Very Reverend Father and Pope and beloved cousin, Gavin, Archbishop of Glasgow." It is dated at Edinburgh, 1st February, 1528, and immediately before subscription runs : " To you we command our Charter under our Great Seal in form of a goat," recalling a quaint symbol of Royal command. The said " Gavin " (Gavin Dunbar) through whom the inestimable privilege thus came to be transferred (one of the family of Cumnock), had, as Prior of Whithorn, been the tutor of the young King. From the days of Kilwinning Abbey to the time of the tutors of " Ardrossan Old Kirk " Saltcoats has maintained an educational prestige which - whether due to the influence of Christian monk or pagan poet-nothing can dim. The days of primitive educational systems are well recalled in the number of its little private schools and school-mistresses of such a type as Mrs Hamilton, who wore a high-crowned cap with a black silk handkerchief tied like a band round her head. She sat in the bow of her attic beside her spinning wheel, her pupils climbing by the aid of a rope-rail the steep wooden stair that led to her seat of learning. At other more public schools the pennies were collected in a wee box which went round the first thing in the morning. When the master’s head was turned the youths would drop in a button instead of a penny; and some came late to escape the collection and so preserve the nimble penny for " pardies." The stately Academy, equidistant between Ardrossan and Saltcoats, although bearing the name of the former town, had its genesis in Saltcoats, being really the development of the Free Church Academy, the teacher of which, Mr Charles Duguid, M.A., and 238 pupils were transported to its elegant enclosure on the other side of the Stanley Burn, on 2nd October, 1882. The excellent public school at Jack’s Road (side by side with the new Parish Church of the town) was opened in August, 1876, and, under the guidance of Mr Wilson, has more than fulfilled the promise contained in his well-expressed deliverance at its opening on that far away summer thirty-three years ago. In Church life Saltcoats has been the most active centre in the West. We have long since lost the vision of grand dames and ladies of less elderly degree in their grey cloaks and mutches, or the black silk shawls of many generations’ wear, leading by the hand boys and girls carrying little stools upon which to settle during the sermon. Well has it been said that the " Auld Kirk has a list o’. heroes that might outrival the great ones in the. eleverath chapter o’ Hebrews.‘, The figure of Rab Dow valiantly protecting the last of the witches from being soused in the Stanley Burn is in contrast with the sorcery hunting shortly before his day, and the treatment meted out to Margaret Couper and Kate Montgomerie, who, in 1650, were apprehended, tried, and put to death for alleged intercourse with the devil. They were convicted on " common bruit evidence." " Plain speiking," says an elder of to-day, "requires to be a little mair sand-paper’t than it used to be." There was a minister of Saltcoats so troubled with the antagonism of a committee of arrogant members-" they were seven "-that he took his revenge by preaching on the seven devils. "Talk about devils," he said with ever increasing indignation at this unhappy septenate, "there are seven devils I would like to see cast out of this congregation." We have ceased to hear the sounds of Gaelic Psalmody breathed from the stentorian throats of red-capped fishermen on peaceful Sunday evenings, the same throats on week-days bolting eggs and herrings without bread. Herring were cheap then-" ninepence the lang hundert." Police life in the old town has gone forward with a remarkable bound, presenting, in its stately bureaucratic headquarters, a striking contrast to the days when the single " bobby " was known as "hunt the beggars," and when the unruly were I driven across the border to the solemn tuck of drum. Most of the real old street characters have departed, leaving behind some " bauchled " female of the back courts, bare of limb, I and looking like an animated scarecrow, to disclose the picturesque identities with a quainter age. There are only a few memories that can recall Tam Spence, who carried provisions in his hat; " Deaf Tom," who, thirty years ago, wandered through the streets, the recipient of unexpected egg-splashes ; John Wood, better known as " Red Hot; " Rab Divine (Rab " Divans ; ") Francis Kennedy, styled " Guiley Gooley," whose pet aversion to the Pontiff was manifested in a whirlwind of popular anathemas ; Peter Hughes, to whom the lads intoned a dainty anthem, beginning " Oh how they sweetly sing Silly is oar Peter." Then there were Robin Jack, otherwise " Smootie," " Cockle Jock," and a weaver, called "Scud," into whose den boys Jock," and a weaver, called would push one another with such dire results as the nick-I name quite suggests; for many a one felt upon his head the avenging violence of a heavy " wab " or the stinging smart of a well-directed shuttle. Nor is it possible to forget Bob M‘Laren, the bellman and beadle of the Free Church. " Johnnie," the bellman of our own day, well sustains the Burgh’s reputation in town-criers. In what chronicle shall we find Hughie Gilmour, who fiddled at the shipyard dances in the beginning of last century ; how many will remember M‘Nab, the baron officer, who, with his big staff, haunted the public greens ; or Peter Linch and Willie Ferguson of later days, whose occupation as thatchers has all but departed. The social and recreative interests of the town deserve more exhaustive treatment than is possible within the covers of this volume. Music has always been a strong point of the Burghers. And let us yield the honour due to the composer of the tune " Saltcoats," of which no man was so proud as Poe, the precentor in the old Burgher Church. The musical productiveness was not all confined to the psalter. Many a hearty " loup " was indulged in to the tune of "The Lads of Saltcoats," a famous country dance which appeared in an old dance-book as far back as 1760, and which, it is said, had a broader fame in Ayrshire than even enthusiasts have troubled to assert. Then there is the still existent Choral Union, the embodiment of the local genius of song. The first to introduce the sol-fa notation into the town was William M‘Innes, leader of psalmody in the East U. P. Church. The musical efforts of the Saltcoats Glee Club and Turner’s Psalmody Improvement Class of 1856 are worthy of record. A joiner in the town has no less than four of his family in the Union; two sons, two daughters, one for each of the four parts-a unique record. The Saltcoats Solomon Lodge of Free Gardeners, instituted 4th January, 1828, is the oldest of the town’s Friendly institutions. It was opened in "William King’s Hall," its first Grand Master being James Willock. ’ Old John Barclay’s Smiddy was afterwards bought and repaired for a meeting-place. The largest and wealthiest society in the district is the Crook and Plaid Lodge of Shepherds, which has also a long career. Until 10th October, 1870, the Good Templars met in an old hall in Green Street. On that date they marched to the old Secession Church with, at their head, an ardent convert who had solemnly declared his intention to sign the pledge " as sure as ma shakin’ haun is able to start ma name and suppose it rain whiskey." The Saltcoats Burns Club, instituted in 1824, which celebrated the great Centenary in the Town Hall, with Tom Miller in the chair, is practically continued, The careers of the literary coteries have shown the saving merit of variation. There was a reading room in the Town Hall in the early days of Saltcoats prosperity. An attempt to resuscitate it about the end of 1858 led to the Public Library of 1860, which was sold eight years later to the Trustees of the Free Congregational Library. In May, 1859, the young Trades lads formed a kind of Artisans’ Association, which afterwards dropped away. The Literary Society has had a remarkable career, and has done much to influence and develop the mind of young Saltcoats. The Rev. Alexander Banks was present at its institution early in last century. He gives the credit of foundation to Captain Wilson, and after him, to James M‘Kie, (" Book Jamie.") It is still guided with thorough enthusiasm. James M‘Kie was publisher of the " Ayrshire Wreath " in 1843, and annually for three years subsequently. In 1867 he published a remarkably accurate fac-simile reprint of the famous Kilmarnock edition of Burns. Saltcoats has had its share of literary enshrinement and association, the picturesque presentment of the " Daughter of Heth" having fallen upon the vision of the novelist, William Black, during his stay at the Saracen’s Head. Long afterwards the opportunity of comparing the identities of scene and character must have given pleasure to Black’s schoolmaster, Buchan, in his quiet retreat near the " Whaup’s Shelter " at Castleweerock. Although Black’s " Coquette " is not recognisable in the ranks of real life, Archie Bryce, the son of the Rev. Mr Bryce of the Old Church, was the undoubted prototype of the " Whaup." The Whaup’s Nest was, of course, the old Saltpans. The town claims another literary interest in connection with " Jeems Kaye," the humorist, whose name, outside his casquet of unrivalled and spacious humour, was Archie M‘Millan, agent ; and he lived for a number of years in Eglinton Street and Montgomerie Crescent. William Burns, writer, a son of the Chemist, founded the "Glasgow St. Andrew’s Society," and was author of various works, including the "History of the Scottish War of Independence." Lord Shand was a step-son. William Brown Smith, bookseller and news-agent, author of ‘*Life Scenes and other Poems," Saltcoats, wrote with such taste and feeling as are shown in "The Auld North Pans : Reverie on Saltcoats Quay-End," and after his death there was published "The World, Without and Within," with a preface by A. W. Buchan. Andrew J. Symington was a writer’ of entertaining and reflective work. Malcolm Kerr, poet and postman, the only rural officer of the district, whose quaint uniform and hat bearing the letters "G. P. 0." are well remembered, left behind him a book of poesy. John Welsh, Scotland’s oldest postman, retired laden with honours on 28th November after a service in letters of forty-seven years. Matthew Bell, carrier between Saltcoats and Kilbride in the Fifties, has a remembered name. John Stewart, latterly of the Glasgow Chonicle, wrote for the papers in the early Twenties, and so vigorously that Dr. Hamilton of Grange had him arrested and taken in a cart to the Jail at Ayr. This was the Doctor who dressed the Earl of Eglinton’s wounds when he was shot by the poacher. Hamilton Street retains the memory of, who died there in 1868, and who, through his mother, was descended from an old Ayrshire family - the Cunninghames of Monkredding. William Holmes, who emigrated to America in 1830, during office as Postmaster, wrote poetry, and was thus literally "a man of letters." A curiosity of local literature was the writing of the Bible in three manuscript volumes, accomplished by a boy, Robert Miller, in 1873. Alexander Watt, now of Leeds, a generous contributor to the local press, wrote, two years ago, a book of character sketches and reflections. He was previously the author of a Guide to Saltcoats, which contained an account of Ardrossan and Stevenston. Mention must also be made of James Smith of Mission Coast Home renown, who in conjunction with Mr Bryden, issued a pamphlet " Napoleonia ; " also a volume under the title of " The Sealed Book ; " and of the late James Campbell, whose loyal interest in the town and its past took the form of more than one literary opuscule, and many piquant contributions to the press. The name of the late Town Clerk, as a leader of public thought and progressive movement, will be for all time a household world. Dr. Kinnier’s portrait, in the Council Room, recalls his generous disposition to the community ; and James Fullerton, banker in that little banking world of the Sixties which he once said a carpet bag might have contained, is a remembered name. In the art world Saltcoats can proudly point to the Academician, John Lavery, as having spent his early days in the town. It is said that he received his first art lesson in the shop of Mr Campbell, Countess Street. Saltcoats claims ) Houston, a rising genius of the pencil. It is in the ranks of maritime life, however, that the town has been able to place its distinguished sons highest. In 1877 five of the biggest shipsafloat were under the command of Captains from the Raise Road, which reminds us that the Smiths of the Smith Line hailed from " Weaverland," although Hamilton Street claims. the Allans of the Allan Line. Captain Sandy Allan, the progenitor of the famous family, went down to Saltcoats to learn the trade of a ship carpenter. He sailed as mate with the late Captain John Wilson, the bookseller in Dockhead Street. He became master of several first-class ships, and married one of the Crawfords who occupied a little cottage in Castleweerock. The brig "Jean" was named after his wife. The late James Allan, his eldest son, and Bryce Allan, a younger son, took up the North American trade. James, the eldest, and Alexander, the youngest, settled down in Glasgow as shipowners. Hugh, along with Andrew, went into business as merchants in Montreal, and ranked amongst the richest in Canada. The old man stood out strongly against the introduction of steam. His sons respected their father’s views : it was only after his death that steam came into the Allan Line. The last links with the days when the boats carried fish and cattle to Ireland, and brought home corn and butter and kegs of "potheen, " have, long been severed ; and the blue stones of Newry and the red boulders of Dublin lie scattered over the deserted strand where the merry crews left them as abandoned ballast long years ago. Yet the echoes of a romantic past come with the boisterous gusts that sweep over the languorous quay and through the crooked lanes and alleys that abut thereon. Children lie dreaming at night over the weird stories bequeathed to them by grave elders, and see the ghostly visions of shipwrecks with sailors clinging to the shrouds and dropping into the angry sea. They read the story of that older Saltcoats in the faces and figures of many who still walk through its antique little streets, giving visible continuity to the stirring traditions that are associated with their families and their names. The Saltcoats of to-day - without its ancient port, and bereft of its weavers-lives mostly for the thousands who swoop down upon it in the summer to be roused by the salty flavour of its breezes, and to bathe in its glorious expanse of water. It lives also for the city magnate, for whom it has built stately abiding places wherein he buries his commercial worries, and escapes from the fogs of Sauchiehall Street. There is the time when the long stretch of the Parade is crowded with promenaders, and the dulcet accent of the Briggate falls upon the ear; when children disport in the sunshine playing with waves and sand, their laughter as inspiring as the music of wood linnets, the smoke of distant Ardrossan curling into air, and the horn of an inbound steamer piping its welcome lay. There is a time in winter when the grey surf beats against a deserted Esplanade, when the rocks are spangled to harmonise with the snowy crest of distant Goatfell, and the little town lies in a silver dream. At such a time there is a rapture and fascination in viewing Saltcoats from the Pier end under the witchery of evening : lights twinkle around the Bay ; and, as in a dissolving view, the new town fades and the old town creeps back into the prospect as plainly as the magic of memory can restore and the power of fond illusion picture it.
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